My last day in the office has come and gone, so too has my farewell party, Bungee Jumping and now; my road trip to the Canadian Rocky Mountains is also behind me... [Sigh]
Day 1 started at 3pm, slightly delayed, with my bed, belongings and basic supplies I hit Hwy 99 towards my first overnight stop at Lake Shuswap. Sleeping in the SUV was very comfortable with my innerspring mattress... I’m not sure that I can call that camping! Day 2 commenced when the birds started tweeting! On the road again towards my next stop Banff, Alberta. Driving through mountains, in a big vehicle AND driving on the right hand side takes a bit of concentration – especially given my driving during the past 2 years has been limited to in/around Whistler.
I arrived in Banff just a little after 5pm local time and straight to the info centre to get directions to the camp site but also to find out the best spot to watch the hockey. Vancouver was playing Boston in the last game of the playoffs... I left the bar before it was even finished. Vancouver lost and there was rioting through the city... all over a hockey game! Disgusting!!!! Something like 15,000 locals donated their time the following day to clean up.
The rain has not let up since about 2pm… I’m so relieved I’m sleeping in the car as opposed to in a tent... being wet is one thing but cold as well – no thanks!
Day 3, wet and cold!! I abandoned the idea of a hike and a climb up Tunnel Mountain for a bird’s eye view of the town and mountains... not much point when all I will see is clouds. Instead, after breakfast in the camp ground (on Tunnel Mountain, just a few km from the centre of Banff) I drove into town to explore the shops and get the feel for resort village. With a coffee in hand and to dry off after a couple of hours wandering in the rain, I hit the library to dry off and an opportunity to check emails and charge my mobile. Then back out in the rain to take the leisurely walk along the river to the Bow river falls and the Banff Springs Hotel of which starts at $400/night – just slightly out of my budget at the moment J. The river runs through the town and is the run-off from the Bow Glacier and lake further north of which I will visit tomorrow. A cheap and cheerful dinner at a sushi restaurant then up to the Hot Springs for a dip. For some reason, the idea of the hot springs in the Rocky Mountains gave me the picture of rock lined baths in a natural setting with spectacular views of the mountains (or clouds depending on the weather).. These hot springs disappointed... it was just a heated concrete swimming pool on a patio with plastic deck chairs. I passed on the experience and headed back to the camp ground for another night in the rain.
Day 4 was an early start... I was in town grabbing a coffee before 8am and I hit the road out of town a little to see Lake Minnewanka.. Its pronounced wonka! It was still raining and cloud covering most of the mountains, but I could still appreciate the beauty – I just had to imagine what lay beyond the clouds. An invigorating early morning walk for probably about 2 hours was lovely and surprisingly not TOO wet, yet!! Next stop is Johnston Canyon, about 30 minutes north along the Bow Hwy, renowned for the wildlife crossings... I’m hoping for a moose, elk and/or grizzly sighting. I was disappointed.
Johnston Canyon’s attraction, with the exception of the hikes into the mountains, is the lower and upper waterfalls. The lower falls is accessed along a boardwalk attached to the side of the canyon, just about water level and is a 2km round trip.. The upper falls is further up and along a dirt (mud) trail and adds an additional 3km to the round trip – so not far! I headed off to see both the lower and upper.. very pretty and a nice walk, and you guessed it WET! Heading up to the upper falls, there was no signage, the trail was narrowing and there was no tourists.. I kept going and going and the 1.7 km seemed never to end. With the ‘lost in the snow’ incident still fresh in my mind.. I turned back after a few additional minutes of walking. When I got back to the parking lot, I checked the sign, and I was on the right path.. I was short only about 100m. DOH! Oh well, I missed a 30 meter waterfall – not the end of the world.
Now absolutely drenched and covered in mud, back in the car and headed further north to Lake Louise. Again, driving along the Bow Hwy nice and slowly (limit is only 70) and hoping desperately for wildlife sighting. No luck this time either.
When I arrived in Lake Louise it was 5 degrees and you got it.. still raining. I heard the views of the lake were spectacular and I agree, but I was feeling defeated and disappointed to see the mountains in the clouds. I was wondering if I was going to see the sun at all?!? Wet and cold, I decided to treat myself to a warm hotel room. Found a rustic mountain lodge just down the road from the lake. After I had dinner I headed up to the roof for a relaxing hot tub and it has stopped raining – finally I see blue sky!! Fingers crossed, it lasts.
Day 5 another early start, the alarm sounds at 5.30 so that I can be packed and ready to go straight after breakfast at 6am. Heading north along the Icelands Parkway to Peyto Lake. En-route, stop for a few photos and Bow Lake – WOW!!! The glacier looks so little.. it measures 50 meters deep – holy cow!
Over the last couple of days, my use of the word ‘Wow’ was a sittingat few hundred by this point. Even before arriving in the Rockys, driving through the BC mountains offered some spectacular scenery! It is amazing how, over just a few hundred kilometers, the terrain and plants changed so dramatically.
Next stop was Peyto Lake. Simply breathtaking!! No exaggeration, I stood on the viewing platform and my mouth dropped and I froze. When I came back to reality, I said to myself ‘Makes the last 5 days of having wet socks and undies worth it for this view’. ‘Totally!’ someone replied.. it was a middle aged guy standing beside me.. He didn’t even bat and eyelid! Ops, I forgot I wasn’t alone on the viewing platform.
Peyto lake is the bluest lake in the whole Rocky Mountain region. Long story short, the fine particles called ‘rock flour’ in the water (glacial melt) reflects blue & green when the light hits the water. If ever I return to the Rockys, I want to take a day long hike in this area.
On my way back to the car, I felt like I was walking on water – on an absolute high. Is this what every day would have been had it not been raining?
Moving on, next stop the Weeping Wall. Its another 30km or so north so an easy drive.. and who can complain driving through such majestic scenery. Weeping Wall is a wet weeping wall of rock, so exactly what the name suggests – I imagine it would be amazing in the depths of winter – a frozen sheet of ice. Apparently ice climbers around the world make their way here to put their skills to the test.
A quick U-Turn and I’m going to try my luck with Lake Louise again as I have to pass through there anyway. What a fabulous idea that ended up being!! As with everything that I’ve seen over the last 4/5 days, the pictures don’t do it justice – it was just beautiful! A wonderful 4km walk (round trip) to the end of the lake and back. WOW WOW WOW!!!
Within 30 minutes of finishing the walk, the rain set in! The weather gods were definitely keeping an eye on me today.. I was in the car and westward bound on the journey back to Whistler. I decided to drive until I had enough.. I was on a high from such an amazing morning, so figured best to cash in on the heightened energy levels and drive until I had enough. I decided to pull over after about 6 hours driving just as the sun was setting. I found a hill top rest stop that overlooked Kamloops & the Lake, so very picturesque..
Day 6 – I woke when the sun came up (which was pretty early) but back to sleep once I rolled over – never have been a morning person. Back on the road and in search of a coffee by 8am. Only 300km until I get back to Whistler, a slow and windy trip from here on in, but guessing my eta will be around 12. A good trip and the roads were quiet! Not much wildlife with the exception of a yearling bear playing peek-a-boo at one corner.
WHAT A TRIP!?!? I highly recommend it! I would’ve liked more time but only if the weather was nice. Next time, I really hope to see a Grizzly, Moose & Elk and I will definitely make it up to Jasper.
